The AW15 shows may be but a distant memory to some, but Paris has given us fashion fever we just can’t shake! We take a look back at some of our favourite runway shows that were the definition of sartorial success…
Nicolas Ghesquière’s third collection for the French fashion house took place inside the biosphere that is Bois de Boulogne, and boasted FROW’ers like Kimye, Selena Gomez, Michelle Williams and Christian Louboutin, to name a few… But this season, unlike the last two that saw a 70’s restrospect, took a turn to the future. Girls took to the runways in a collection made of high-tech fabrics and luxe materials, combined with kohl clad eyes and lived-in centre parted locks, for the ultimate Parisian chic appeal. Typically catering to the ‘cool girl’ aesthetic, this collection saw oversized silver box bags to reign as LV’s new arm candy.
A wilting bouquet, a decaying rose and a fading flower make up the inspiration behind Sarah Burton’s chilling beautiful collection steeped in the frayed nature of reality and the beauty of imperfection. A colour palette of crimsons, blacks and silvers, adorned on 3D skirts, lace fishtail hems and knitted dresses gave a nod to the notion of nature, fragility and beauty. Staged at the Conciergerie in Paris, the vaulted chambers where Marie Antoinette was imprisoned, and the venue for Lee McQueen’s first show thirteen years ago, models donned 18th century meets Miss Havishman hair and make-up, and simply put on a sartorial spectacle that will go down in history.
The penultimate day of the Paris collections saw Pierpaolo Piccioli and Maria Grazia Chiuri’s designs hit the catwalk. Their new season muses? Emilie Flöge and Celia Birtwell, two women who inspired the men in their lives to accomplish great things while at the same time nurturing their own creative paths. The collection saw a plethora of graphic and geometric play on monochrome ensembles to sensual silk crepe dresses and knit sweaters worn with A-line midi skirts. And an unrivalled finale of epic proportions boasted Derek Zoolander and Hansel, aka Ben Stiller and Owen Wilson and their best ‘Blue Steel’ impressions. Need we say more?
The closing show, with décor and set-ups that are as highly anticipated as the RTW line, was inspired by “a vision of France from a stranger who thinks France is not that bad”, says Karl Lagerfeld. Large collars, roll necks, sleeveless cardigans, buttoned up coat-dresses and luxed up puffa jackets with iconic Chanel quilting were all worn with a single style of shoe, a toe-capped, mid-heeled slingback. The line up of models, which included Cara Delevingne’s only catwalk appearance, donned slick, side-parted hair and little black headbands.
There was a scent of sartorial rebellion in the air at Hedi Slimane’s show. Torn fishnet tights, mini dresses dripping in prom-style tulle, combined with mannish tweed blazers, and heavy makeup strutting down the runway to the music of Danish punk three-piece, The Felines, made for a heart-palpitating show.
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, the brand new artistic director of Hermès, payed homage to the rich heritage of the brand during her first AW15 show. From luxe leather, which cropped up in the form of slouchy overalls, jackets and coats, to their iconic silk scarves, the equestrian motif played out perfectly through this collection.
Inspired by the Mexican and Puerto Rican chola, the Latin American street gangs who identify themselves with aggressive facial piercings, pencilled eyebrows and hair slicked into baby curls around the face, Ricardo Tisci had imagined her Victorian counterpart. “The cholas are very Latin, and very stylish, which I love,” Tisci explained backstage of his intergenerational mash up. “And Victoriana is an obsession which I have had since childhood but was afraid to explore until now.” Dark, gothic and magical, this is a show to remember.
The Céline woman this season is that of an undone one. Phoebe Philo brought us neutral and warm colour palettes, with hues of terracotta, navy and burnt oranges adorned on collarless coat-dresses with sleeves that peeled away to reveal shoulders, slinky, silk, floor-skimmng dresses and wide leg trousers paired with oversized tote bags. Minimalistic silhouettes in the most luxurious fabrics gave a nod to the tyical Céline aesthetic.
An era that has a tight hold on designers at the moment, Oliver Rousteing looked to the 70’s for inspiration this AW15. Alessandra Ambrosio opened the show in a cut-to-the navel, floor-length, mustard pleated gown, followed by an array of violets, yellows, greens and blacks. Glittery lurex fringing and psychedelic colour schemes reigned the runway. This season’s #BalmainArmy is that of a fierce one, ladies.