“If you treat yourself like a king, you’ll attract a queen.”
Hermès takes that philosophy to heart, treating its handbags like royalty. Each creation is not just a product, but a legacy: meticulously crafted, obsessively perfected, and coded with secrets only the initiated understand. For over 180 years, Hermès has set the gold standard for luxury leather goods. And while the brand’s iconic Birkin, Kelly, and Constance bags steal the spotlight, it’s the date codes, often discreetly stamped and easily overlooked, that quietly tell the bag’s full story.
Also known as the blind stamp, the Hermès date code is a small yet significant marker pressed into the leather, revealing the year the bag was made, the artisan who crafted it, and sometimes the exotic material used. These codes aren’t just identifiers; they serve as tools for authentication, valuation, provenance, and personal history. Whether you’re a seasoned collector, a savvy reseller, or a first-time buyer navigating the world of luxury resale, understanding these codes is crucial.
This guide breaks down the significance, evolution, and decoding process of Hermès date stamps—from their beginnings in 1945 to their most recent iterations. You’ll also find practical charts, tips to spot fakes, and a deep dive into the elusive special stamps—those tiny symbols that can turn a regular bag into a collector’s grail.
The Significance of Hermès Date Codes
Hermès date codes aren’t just subtle engravings—they’re the bag’s luxury passport, or we can say, its identity card, revealing its origin, authenticity, and journey. The shortest story ever told. Here’s why they matter:
Authenticity Checkpoint
Every authentic Hermès bag carries a blind stamp, typically hidden inside or under the flap. But here’s the truth: even the best counterfeits attempt to replicate these marks. That’s why simply spotting a date code isn’t enough. Experts examine the font, the depth of embossing, the stamp’s position, and the overall craftsmanship. The date code is a crucial clue, but it must be read in conjunction with materials, stitching, heat stamps, and the structure.
Dating the Bag: Age & Value
The date code reveals the year of manufacture, and that can make all the difference. Whether you’re eyeing a 1990s Kelly in rare Box calf or a fresh-off-the-runway Birkin in 2025’s “Vert Fizz“ hue, the code helps determine its place in the Hermès timeline. For investors and collectors alike, age affects desirability, pricing, and appreciation.
Craftsmanship & Traceability
Next to the date letter, you’ll often find the artisan’s ID—a sequence of letters or numbers linking your bag to the actual craftsperson or workshop. This adds another layer of traceability and proof of Hermès’ meticulous craftsmanship. If the bag ever requires repair, Hermès can sometimes route it back to its original artisan based on this code. Talk about full-circle service.
Uniqueness in the Details
Each Hermès bag is individually handmade, which means no two are exactly alike. The date code adds context to that uniqueness—be it the leather used that year, the color palette in rotation, or trends in production methods. Think of it as a time stamp on your bag’s DNA.
Provenance & Collectibility
For serious collectors, the date code is part of the story. Combine it with artisan stamps, exotic leather symbols, or the coveted horseshoe stamp (for special orders), and suddenly, you’re not just holding a bag—you’re holding a narrative. These details can boost both emotional value and resale price.
Security & Insurance
Lost your bag? Need to ensure your collection? That blind stamp is more than just aesthetic—it serves as a unique identifier. Be sure to photograph it or log the details upon purchase, especially when buying pre-owned items. It could be the key to recovery or a smoother claims process.
Evolution of Hermès Date Codes
Hermès introduced date codes in 1945, evolving the system over time to accommodate production growth and deter counterfeiting. Below is a detailed breakdown of the system’s progression:
- Pre-1945: No date codes were used, requiring expert analysis of materials and craftsmanship for authentication.
- 1945–1970: A single letter (A to Z) was embossed without a shape, starting with “A“ for 1945 and ending with “Z“ for 1970.
- 1971–1996: The letter was enclosed in a circle to extend the cycle, restarting with “A“ in 1971 and continuing to “Z“ in 1996.
- 1997–2014: The letter was placed in a square, starting with “A“ in 1997 and ending with “R“ in 2014. In 2011, some bags featured a double-blind stamp with an “O“ in a square interlinked with a “J“ craftsman stamp, forming a rectangle. In late 2014, some bags had an “R“ without a square, marking the transition to the next system.
- 2015–Present: Letters are used without a shape, starting with “T“ in 2015. The sequence continued to “Z“ in 2021, with “K“ confirmed for 2025. In recent years, it may not follow strict alphabetical order to deter counterfeiting.
Year Range | Stamp Format | Example | Letter Sequence | Duration |
1945-1970 | Letter only, no shape | A | A (1945) – Z (1970) | 26 Years (A to Z) |
1971-1996 | Letter in a circle | (A) | A (1971) – Z (1996) | 26 Years (A to Z) |
1997-2014 | Letter in a square | ☐A☐ | A (1997) – R (2014) | 18 Years (A to R) |
2015-2021 | Letter only, no shape | T | T (2015) – Z (2021) | 7 Years (T to Z) |
2025 | Letter only, no shape | K | K(2025) | Started |
Notes:
- For 2022–2024, exact date codes are not publicly confirmed, as Hermès may use non-sequential letters to deter counterfeiting.
- The 2014 anomaly (some “R“ stamps without a square) reflects the transition to the no-shape system.
- Authentic stamps are crisp, evenly pressed, and aligned. Fuzzy or crooked stamps = warning bell.
What Does a Hermès Stamp Look Like?
Hermès stamps are discreetly embossed into the leather—always subtle, never disruptive to the bag’s exterior. These markings convey critical details about the bag’s origin, including the year of manufacture, the artisan’s identity, and occasionally, special features such as exotic leathers or custom orders.
Example of a Hermès Blind Stamp:
□M YZ 123
Let’s break it down:
- □M → This is the date code. The square around the letter “M“ indicates the bag was made in 2009.
-
YZ123 → This is the artisan/workshop code, a combination of letters and numbers that identifies the craftsman or workshop involved in the bag’s production.
Here’s how to interpret them:
Date Code (stamped letter with or without a shape) + Craftsman Code / Batch Number (stamped alphanumeric string) = Hermes Blind Stamp
Date Code
This letter-based system indicates the year the bag was made. The font is sharp, evenly aligned, and lightly pressed into the leather.
Format Evolution:
- 1945–1970: Single letter (e.g., A for 1945)
- 1971–1996: Letter inside a circle (e.g., (A) for 1971)
- 1997–2014: Letter inside a square (e.g., ▢A▢ for 1997)
- 2015–present: Back to plain letters (e.g., K for 2025)
Artisan/ Craftsman Stamp
Accompanying the date code is a series of letters and numbers identifying the craftsman or workshop. Since 2016, most Birkins and Kellys feature:
- One row with the date letter and a five-character alphanumeric string
- Two letters directly below (the internal artisan ID)
Note: Only Hermès has the official artisan directory—these codes are helpful for traceability but aren’t publicly decodable.
Brand Stamp
Near the blind stamp, you’ll also find the foil-pressed “Hermès, Paris, Made in France“ logo—centered, consistent, and in foil (gold, silver, or clear), matching the bag’s hardware.
Special Stamps for Leather Types and Characteristics
In addition to date codes, Hermès uses special symbols to indicate the type of leather or specific production circumstances, such as exotic materials or custom orders. These stamps are typically found near the “Hermès, Paris, Made in France“ stamp and are separate from the date code. Below is a table of these special stamps:
Symbol | Meaning |
☐ (Square | Alligator Mississippiensis |
^ (Carat) | Crocodile Porosus |
.. (Double Dots) | Crocodile Niloticus |
– (Dash) | Varanus Niloticus Lizard |
= (Equal Sign) | Varanus Salvator Lizard |
Horseshoe | Custom-made special order (HSS) |
Shooting Star | Craftsman’s personal product (rare) |
“S” or Numbers/Letters | Employee purchase or atelier section |
Notes:
- These symbols provide additional information about the bag’s materials or production status. For example, a bag featuring a ^ symbol is made from Crocodile Porosus leather.
- The “S“ stamp or additional numbers/letters often indicate the workshop or artisan involved.
Where to Find Hermès Date Stamps? (Model-Specific Placement Guide)
The location of Hermès’ blind stamps varies by model and manufacturing year. Here’s a breakdown of where to look depending on the bag:
Birkin Bags
- Pre-2016: Under the left interior strap
- Post-2016: Left interior wall near the back flap
Kelly Bags
- Pre-2016: Under the left strap
- Post-2016: Left interior panel near the flap
- Kelly 25cm: Vertical stamp on rear interior pocket
- Kelly 20cm: Vertical stamp along the back wall
Constance
- Central interior panel or upper inner corner near the seam (post-2015)
Bolide
- Mini: Inside the interior pocket
- Larger sizes: Interior panel near side seam
Evelyne
- Under the front flap or inside near the base seam
Garden Party
- Interior leather seam panel (inside the open cavity)
Herbag
- Inner panel near the seam (can be faint)
Lindy
- Side interior seam or under flap near the clasp
Picotin
- Small leather tab inside near the top or base
Small Leather Goods (SLGs)
- Wallets/Cardholders: Inside lining or inner pocket.
- Cosmetic Pouches: Inside, near the zipper or seam
- Agendas/Notebooks: Interior flap or under snap tab
Rare Exceptions
Occasionally, especially with special orders or vintage models, the stamp may appear incomplete or missing altogether. This is rare post-1945, but not impossible. Professional authentication is always advised in such cases.
Authenticating Hermès Bags Using Date Codes
To ensure a Hermès bag is authentic, the date code is a critical starting point, but it must be verified in conjunction with other indicators. Here’s how to use date codes for authentication:
- Locate the Date Code
Confirm the code’s location matches the model and year (e.g., post-2016, a Hermès Birkin stamp code is inside the flap). If a post-1945 bag lacks a date code, it’s likely inauthentic, though faded stamps on older bags may require expert inspection.
2. Verify the Format
-
- Ensure the letter and shape match the claimed year (e.g., “K” with no shape for 2025). Use the date code table to cross-reference.
- Check for crisp, even embossing; counterfeit stamps may be uneven or shallow.
- Be aware of anomalies, such as the 2011 double-blind stamp (“O” in a square with a “J” forming a rectangle) or 2014’s transitional “R” stamps.
3. Examine Special Stamps
- Verify artisan stamps and special symbols (e.g., a carat (^) for Crocodile Porosus).
- A horseshoe or shooting star indicates rare custom or craftsman pieces.
4. Cross-Reference with Other Authenticity Markers
Date codes alone are not foolproof, as counterfeiters can replicate them. Additional checks include:
- Logo:
The “Hermès, Paris, Made in France” stamp should be centered, in gold, silver, or natural foil matching the hardware.
- Hardware:
Authentic hardware is plated in precious metals, with a small hallmark next to the “Paris” stamp on gold-plated pieces.
- Craftsmanship:
Look for consistent stitching, high-quality leather, and precise construction. Minor variations are normal, but sloppy work is unacceptable; it must be meticulous and precise.
Buy from reputable resellers, such as Madison Avenue Couture or The Luxury Closet, which offer authentication guarantees. Avoid suspiciously cheap deals on online marketplaces.
6. Seek Professional Authentication
If the date code is unclear or you suspect a fake, consult professional authenticators. They are adept at examining stamps, materials, and craftsmanship as a whole.
Tips for Hermes Buyers
- Request High-Resolution Images: When buying pre-owned Hermès bags, ask for clear photos of the date code and surrounding stamps.
- Compare with Receipts: If available, match the date code to the year on the purchase receipt.
- Be Cautious of Anomalies: Inconsistent stamps, missing codes on post-1945 bags, or incorrect shapes for the claimed year are red flags.
- Understand Limitations: Hermès does not issue authenticity cards, and date codes are not unique serial numbers; all bags from the same year share the same letter.
Find Your Hermès Treasure—Classic, Coveted, and 100% Authentic @ The Luxury Closet.
Hermès date codes and special stamps aren’t just numbers and symbols—they’re the DNA of each bag. From the evolution of simple letters in 1945 to today’s nuanced alphanumeric systems (hello, “K” for 2025), these discreet markings offer vital insight into a bag’s age, craftsmanship, and authenticity. Special stamps—whether a horseshoe for a bespoke order or a square for alligator leather—add another layer of exclusivity.
At The Luxury Closet, every Hermès piece undergoes meticulous inspection by expert authenticators who decode these subtle signatures so you don’t have to. Shop with confidence and explore our curated selection of verified Hermès icons—each one as genuine as it is timeless.


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FAQs: Hermès Date Codes & Authenticity
1. What is a Hermès date code (blind stamp)?
A Hermès date code, also known as a blind stamp, is an embossed marking that indicates the year a bag was manufactured. It may also include symbols or artisan codes that denote the craftsman and production details. These stamps are subtle and hand-embossed, often matching the color of the leather.
2. Where can I find the Hermès date stamp?
The location of the stamp depends on the bag model and production year:
- Birkin & Kelly Bags: Typically under the top flap, on the interior gusset (left or right side).
- Constance & Lindy Bags: Usually behind the interior pocket or along a side seam.
- Vintage Bags: Stamps may fade, shift in location, or be hard to spot, especially on smooth or dark leathers.
Tip: Use bright, indirect light—stamps are often faint and may be partially obscured by grain or creasing.
3. How can I tell what year my Hermès bag was made?
Match the date stamp to a Hermès blind stamp chart:
- A letter + shape indicates a specific year.
- Example: A in a circle = 1971, O in a square = 2011
- From 2015 onward, Hermès reverted to a single letter with no shape.
- Example: T = 2015, K = 2025
- If you see a longer alphanumeric stamp, such as K234XYZ, the first letter (K) still represents the year.
Note: The alphabet repeats every 26 years. Always consider the style, material, and craftsmanship to avoid misdating a bag.
4. How do I read a Hermès date stamp?
Here’s a quick timeline:
- 1945–1970: Single letter (e.g., A = 1945)
- 1971–1996: Letter in a circle (e.g., A ○ = 1971)
- 1997–2014: Letter in a square (e.g., A ◻ = 1997)
- 2015 onward: Single letter again (e.g., T = 2015)
Use a full Hermès date code chart for reference.
5. Can a Hermès date code prove a bag is authentic?
Not by itself. While a correct date code is a good sign, counterfeiters can replicate them. Authenticity depends on multiple factors, including stitching, heat-stamped font, leather texture, hardware, and scent. Always use professional authentication services for peace of mind.
6. What do special Hermès symbols mean?
Special characters indicate unique features:
- 🔱 Horseshoe = Custom order (HSS)
- ◻️ Square = Alligator Mississippiensis
- ^ = Porosus crocodile
- •• = Niloticus crocodile
- ★ = Crafted for a Hermès employee
These symbols can add rarity and value.
7. Do all Hermès bags have the exact date code location?
No. Placement varies by model:
- Birkin & Kelly: Under flap or inside gusset
- Constance: Behind the inner pocket
- Evelyne & Picotin: On base seam or leather tab
Always consult a model-specific guide when in doubt.
8. What if my Hermès bag doesn’t have a visible stamp?
Missing or faint stamps can occur, particularly on vintage, exotic, or heavily used bags. However, the absence of a stamp is a red flag. Have the item authenticated by a reputable expert or service.
9. Can I verify an artisan stamp myself?
No. Artisan codes are internal and not publicly traceable. However, Hermès can use them to confirm workshop origin or support repair claims. They serve more as behind-the-scenes proof of craftsmanship lineage.
10. How can I shop for authentic Hermès bags online?
Stick with trusted resellers that offer in-house authentication, like The Luxury Closet. Every Hermès item is examined for:
- Date stamps & artisan codes
- Leather quality & grain
- Stitching precision
- Heat stamp details
- Hardware originality
Your dream Birkin or Kelly deserves nothing less than full transparency.